Lyndahl knowledge: HDMI, in-wall speakers & installation

There is no fixed limit — resolution, frame rate and the signal quality of the source device decide. As a rule of thumb from our support work: Full HD runs reliably up to about 10 m with a good cable, 4K at 30 Hz has been tested with our SL-P cable up to 15 m, and 4K at 60 Hz becomes increasingly critical beyond a few metres. For long runs we recommend cables with a built-in amplifier (CE-A series). Read more →

Ready-made extension cables usually stop at 5 m. A single continuous cable of the right length is always the better option. Where that is impossible, a coupler with two sockets (e.g. LKHA004) works — but every additional plug connection costs signal reserve, so test the setup before plastering anything in. For long runs, an active cable with built-in amplifier helps.

The SL-P system consists of HDMI bulk cable (AWG 24 or AWG 26) and connectors that are fitted without soldering using insulation-displacement technology; the assembly and IDC guides make the job easier. The advantage: the cable is pulled through the conduit first, the connector goes on afterwards. AWG 24 offers more reserve on long runs, AWG 26 is thinner and more flexible. Read more →

Yes. The plug has stayed the same since the first HDMI versions, so devices and cables of different versions can be combined. However, the weakest link in the chain applies: the usable features are determined by the lowest version involved. Read more →

The finished plug with its strain relief is usually too thick for common conduits, especially with several cables or bends in the pipe. Two proven approaches: pull in bulk cable and fit the SL-P connector after pulling — or install a wall box with a rear-side connection. Read more →

Keystone is modular: HDMI, network, USB, jack, RCA or binding posts can be combined freely in one frame and changed later. A permanently assembled plate is the cleanest solution when the layout is final. For conference rooms and trade-fair stands we tend to recommend keystone — requirements change there in our experience. Read more →

Practically all common ones: HDMI, network (Cat 5e/6a), USB 2.0 to 3.1 including USB-C, jack, RCA, DisplayPort, DVI, VGA, Sub-D and speaker terminals — each as a panel adapter, adapter cable or keystone module. Read more →

Bare strands fray and oxidise. Ferrules are recommended for clamp terminals, banana plugs or spades for binding posts. In the wall, flush-mounted boxes with speaker terminals provide a clean finish. For the cross-section: the longer the run, the larger — 2.5 mm² is a safe choice for typical domestic distances.

The CS200BT is a closed set with a built-in Bluetooth amplifier: music comes exclusively via Bluetooth, external sources or additional speakers cannot be connected. The CS200P is passive and connects to an existing amplifier. The most flexible solution is the Bluetooth amplifier AMP4X15BT with AUX input: up to four speakers, and a TV or other source can also be fed in by cable. For bathrooms or covered outdoor areas: CS180IP with IP44.

In principle yes — impedance is the deciding factor. Both channels should carry the same load, and the total impedance must not fall below the amplifier minimum: with identical speakers, parallel wiring halves the value, series wiring doubles it. The AMP4X15BT is designed for four speakers out of the box. Read more →

The standard pairing code of the Lyndahl Bluetooth systems is 0000, pairing itself is automatic. The most common cause when no connection is established: a previously paired device (for example a family member’s phone) still occupies the speaker. Disconnect or unpair it there, then pair again.

Yes — the CS180IP is rated IP44 for damp rooms and suits bathrooms, kitchens or covered terraces. It is available individually or as a set with a Bluetooth amplifier.

Not after purchase — the chip is sealed at the factory. For current production batches we can programme a custom name and password before dispatch on request; older versions (MKII/MKIII) could be reprogrammed at the factory. You can also rename the device on your own smartphone — that only changes the local label. Depending on the year of manufacture, the code is 1423 (first generation), 0000, or there is no PIN prompt at all. Read more →

While you are actively playing, the device is locked against third parties. The most reliable protection is a remote-controlled socket or an in-line switch: the amplifier only gets power when it is needed — this does not harm the device, and pairings are retained. In environments such as schools, wired playback via AUX is the most robust solution. Read more →

The AUX input is very sensitive: even the tiny residual voltage many sources leave on their output in standby keeps the amplifier awake — sometimes with audible hum or hiss. Test: unplug the AUX cable; if the device then goes into standby, the source is the trigger. Remedies: a well-shielded cable, the same mains circuit, a jack cable with an in-line volume control, or an in-line switch. Read more →

It presents itself as a normal Bluetooth audio device and therefore generally works with Echo, Google devices and TVs. We deliberately give no guarantee — manufacturer software updates have repeatedly broken existing pairings. The most stable solution is a jack cable into the AUX input; there is no Alexa skill. Read more →

In principle yes — the AMP4X15BT was originally conceived for caravan equipment and runs on 12 V; its voltage regulator tolerates about 15 V at most, so a stable 14.6 V LiFePO4 supply is uncritical. Be careful on a raw on-board network though: starting and charging produce voltage spikes the device is not protected against — use a stabilised supply delivering at least 3 A. A vehicle power adapter is not included; we advise against permanently installing the speakers in a vehicle because of vibrations.

The blue LED tells you a lot: if it lights or flashes, the power supply is fine and the Bluetooth board is usually the cause — it can be replaced yourself with a few screws and is available as an inexpensive spare part, as is the power supply. If everything stays dark, check the power supply first. Within the two-year warranty period we replace parts free of charge.

Yes. The active speaker can be converted into a passive one: the internal cable is disconnected from the Bluetooth board and the external amplifier is wired directly — just mind the polarity. If you plan this from the start, choose the passive CS200P right away. Read more →

Guide values: CS200P template 180 mm (min. approx. 172 mm), CS200S 176 mm, CS180IP 135–137 mm, CS195ST 174 mm, CS120AL 106 mm; mounting depths 63–85 mm. The cutting template included in the box is always authoritative — if you print a PDF template, measure the inner circle first, printers like to scale without asking. Read more →